A Word About Grinding, Polishing, and Buffing:
Grinding:  Grinding is necessary to remove deep scratches, gouges, knicks, and the uneven surface of a rough
casting.  Grinding is accomplished using rough abrasives beginning with 80-grit and proceeding to 400-grit or finer.

Polishing:  Polishing is the process of removing all scratches left by the grinding process.  High-speed buffers and
relatively coarse compounds are used.

Buffing: Buffing is also performed with high-speed equipment, but using progressively finer compounds.  During the
final buff, the surface material actually flows over itself, reducing microscopic high spots and filling in low areas to
completely eliminate scratches

Porous Metals: Many aluminum and brass items, especially motorcycle parts, contain tiny bubbles within and
throughout the metal.  These "pores" are a result of less-than-perfect manufacturing methods.  No amount of grinding
or polishing will remove these holes, which show up as pitting or a "grain" in the surface of the part, especially
aluminum.  As the metal's surface is ground away, new pores are exposed.  Therefore, if your item shows signs of this
condition, it
will be visible after polishing and buffing.  Your aluminum or brass part will still be amazingly bright and
reflective, but very close examination will reveal these tiny defects.  Please be aware that there is nothing we can do to
hide this "pitting".  You can see an excellent example
here.
Mike's Polishing
Aluminum Care
I've been asked (by non-customers), "Why do my aluminum parts oxidize?  It's a pain to polish them every two
weeks!".  The answer in most cases is that most of the time, this is not "oxidation"; it's just that your aluminum parts
simply have not been sufficiently polished.  Tiny scratches hold dirt; with  enough of these scratches present, the
entire surface will look dull.  I finally polished my own bike's lower fork legs this spring, have ridden all season in
rain, dust and dirt, and with a simple wipe of a cloth they always look like chrome again.  And, if I get a ding or a
stone chip, unlike with clearcoat or chrome I can polish it out and be on my way.

Obtain a few microfiber polishing cloths, available at polishing supply houses or possibly local auto boutiques.  Use
these with Flitz (my preference because it has no abrasives), Mother's, or Simichrome polish every month or as
needed.  Please note that it doesn't take much to scratch aluminum - don't add to the problem  by using nylon scrub
brushes or household rags on your polished parts when you wash.
"Mike,
I received the valve covers in the mail today.  They came out better than expected considering the pores...I'm
very pleased with the work you performed and will pass your name on to others in my area."    ...Hiram S.,
Missouri
"Mike did a really good job for an extremely fair price.  He's a good guy to deal with."    ...Brian H., PA
"Mike,
I just got (
the hand controls) yesterday.  They look great!!  Especially the hand levers, they shine as well as they
did when they were chrome....Great job, great price, great service.  I'll send anything I need polished to you
again!!"     ........Scott K., SC
"The Shovelhead parts I sent you were from VERY rough castings.  I didn't know what to expect.  Wow!  You
exceeded my expectations.  You obviously are detail-oriented.  Great work.  I will definitely use your service
again when the need arises.  I will be recommending you to everyone I know."...Kevin C., NY
"Mike,
Got the wheels last night, they are works of art.  I am completely satisfied with mine - I'm sure Freddie will be
too!"  ...Jason H., NJ
Safety Considerations
For safety items like wheels, motorcycle frames, brake discs, etc., sometimes there are defects which I will not remove
because it would reduce the thickness of the metal too much.  If, for instance, a wheel rim surface has factory-induced
orangepeel or ripples .001 or .002" deep, that means I need to remove that amount of material to get the surface
perfectly flat.  In my opinion this is not a good idea, therefore I often leave these defects in place, but I do overpolish
them to the same brilliance as the rest of the item.
"Mike,
Just wanted to say it is a pleasure doing business with you, from the beginning to end.  Your contact, updates,
concerns, commitment, professionalism and most of all the quality of your workmanship are all 'first class'.  The
Weber manifold was not an easy piece to do, by any means, but you turned out an exceptional finish!
Many thanks."   ...Bill M., Derry, NH
"I have had Harley parts both chromed and polished.  Chrome is very expensive and hard to get good work
today.  Mike's work is cheaper and outstanding.  I know my customers will be happy when they get work back
from Mike!" ...Doc

Doc's Hawg Clinic
9521 N US Hwy. 287
Sunset, TX 76270
(940) 845- HAWG
setstats
setstats
setstats
Do-it-yourselfer?
Try my new e-book, "Metal Polishing Tips, Tricks, and Techniques"
Order e-book...
"Hello Mike, I received the parts - excellent job, well done...I am sending pics to you and I am getting ready to
send you more parts. Thank you!  ...Charlie Dorner

Charlie's Place - Truck & Trailer Repairs
115 Sass Road
Chatham, Ontario, Canada
N7M5J4
519-351-0228   (see Charlie's hot rod semi on the Customers' Corner  page!)
NOTICE
Due to the current economic conditions and other
factors, I am no longer taking new polishing
customers for major work.  I will still accept orders for
small pieces (i.e., no larger than cycle engine side
covers, etc.).  You can contact me at
mike@mikespolishing.com, or at 717-877-3168.

I apologize for any inconvenience and thank my past
customers for their business.

My e-book will remain available and may be ordered
below.